The 2019 edition of Vivaness, the largest international natural and organic trade fair for beauty products ended on a high note. According to organizers NurembergMesse, 284 exhibitors from 41 regions gathered this year, and a total of 51,500 trade visitors attended the trade fair and its sister show BIOFACH.
With an annual turnover of 126 billion Euro (+5.9%) for certified organic beauty in 2018, Germany is the leading organic cosmetics market in Europe and the second-biggest worldwide, after the US.
Unsurprisingly, Germany was also the biggest exhibitor country at Vivaness with 94 companies, followed by France with 46 brands, Italy with 24 exhibitors, Spain with 17 beauty brands and Austria with 11 exhibitors.
AN EXCITING BLEND
Vivaness always offers an vibrant exhibitor mix which ranges from mainstream and mass-market beauty brands over start-up companies to high-end luxury and niche labels.
This year's line-up included established German companies like Lavera, Logona, Weleda, Primavera, Speick, Luvos, i+m Berlin, Santaverde and Bioturm, but also major European natural beauty companies such as Mádara from Latvia, Urtekram from Sweden, Lea Nature, Acorelle and Biosolis from France and Natura Siberica from Russia.
The two European organic certifying associations, Cosmos and Natrue, also returned with their now well-established communal exhibition booths, presenting a wide range of their brand clients.
However, Vivaness is also a great place to check out international start-up and indie beauty brands: This year's Breeze exhibit – the trade show's newcomer showcase which premiered in 2011 – presented 24 organic niche brands from around the world. The "Innovation made in Germany" space (a special exhibition area dedicated to startup brands from Germany) also returned in 2019.
As usual Vivaness 2019 presented a host of exciting new product launches, innovative brand concepts, and key trends from the world of international beauty.
Hemp-based skin care, for example, is currently creating a major stir on the international beauty scene, and this trend was also very present at Vivaness trade show.
Slovenian brand Hemptouch has been manufacturing skin and body care formulated with hemp oil, hemp extract and cannabidiol (CBD) for a number of years. At Vivaness 2019 the company presented several new products, including a body butter based on hemp oil and a range of CBD oral sprays.
And Lithuania's You & Oil introduced a range of skin salves formulated with 5% CBD. There are seven creams for different skin conditions, such as acne or eczema, burnt or heat-afflicted skin or very dry and sensitive skin types.
Good skin bacteria
Microbiome beauty products are also trending strongly at the moment. Several Vivaness exhibitors featured probiotic product launches. Taiwanese beauty brand Naveen, for example, presented its Microbiome collection of two skin care serums which are packed with an extra high dose of fermented ingredients.
And Sativa from Belarus has built its entire brand concept around the skin's microbiome, developing a portfolio of products carefully formulated to work with the skin's physiology and nurture the skin's own microflora. Amongst the brand's new launches are five mineral-based sun protection creams.
In fact, sun protection continued to be popular at Vivaness this year. A number of big European beauty brands launched new SPF products.
Speick from Germany, for example, presented four new face and body sun protection creams while fellow German brand Eco Cosmetics introduced four SPF-equipped CC creams and Latvian organic pioneer Mádara contributed several sun care and after-sun products.
FOCUS ON REGIONALITY
Regional ingredients also played a major role at Vivaness 2019.
Beauty from the Arctic
"Nordic Beauty" – ingredients sourced from Northern Europe and Scandinavia – turned up in the products of luxury indie brand Inari Arctic Beauty. The Finnish-German niche brand was launched in late 2018 and its four face care products are formulated with a proprietary ingredients blend that includes several Arctic plant extracts, like rhodiola rosea, chaga mushroom, lingonseed berry, and pine bark.
Russian naturals brand Natura Siberica offered a twist on the Nordic trend with the launch of its new Siberian bath and body care range. The line-up includes 14 products – shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, body scrubs, and body lotions – each of which is based on a specific Siberian ingredient – rhodiola rosea, for example, Siberian ginseng, Khakassian melissa or rowanberry.
A cup of matcha tea
Japanese newcomer brand Artq Organics was a first-time exhibitor at Vivaness. At the trade show, the Hokkaido-based beauty brand presented its new Atelier Organic line which was created specifically for the European market. The three beauty products are formulated with traditional Japanese ingredients such as sake lees, rice extract and matcha green tea powder.
Matcha is also the key ingredient in Swedish brand Urtekram's new Green Matcha skin and body care range. The line offers a shampoo, intensive hair treatment, and hair conditioner, anti-cellulite scrub, hand cream, cream body wash, body lotion and deodorant.
Bulgaria is traditionally well represented at Vivaness – this year there were eight Bulgarian brands at the show. And while this small Eastern European country with its famous Valley of Roses is traditionally associated with rose cosmetics, it has actually much more to offer in terms of regional ingredients – lavender, for example.
Bulgarian beauty brand Ayan specializesin lavender beauty products. Founder Yana Moravska owns a lavender field where she grows and harvests four different types of lavender, supplying various international and domestic beauty manufacturers with lavender essentil oil and other lavender products. However, Yana also used the lavender in her Ayan range – and at Vivaness 2019, she presented a host of new product launches, including a lavender face cleansing foam and moisturiser, a baby care range formulated with lavender extract and hydrosol and the Ageless Beauty collection of two oil serums.
A traditional European ingredient that appeared in new product launches across the trade show was helychrisium italicumor immortelle flower; a yellow-blooming plant which grows in the rocky, sandy soil of the Mediterranean. The immortelle is also called Strawflower or Everlasting or even "curry plant" because of its distinct scent.
Korean indie brand Urang Natural used immortelle hydrosol as the base of its new Everlasting Pink Ampoule while Bulgarian brand Wooden Spoon introduced a new skin serum with immortelle extract and Farfalla from Switzerland launched a new immortelle-based range which offers four face care products
Bathing in the forest
One of the current international lifestyle trends is Shinrin-Yoku. The Japanese term is translated as "forest bathing" and refers to the practice of taking a walk through a forest (or sometimes sitting quietly in the midst of the trees), enjoying the healing energy from the tree and the clean air.
German aromatherapy brand Primavera has picked up this Japanese wellness trend with the launch of four essential oil blends – fir needle, mountain pine, Himalaya cedar and larch – which are available as a set.
A rather unexpected product trend at Vivaness 2019 was oral hygiene – products designed to keep teeth and gums clean and healthy.
Although Germany already has a well-developed organic oral care sector, with plents of options from mainstream brands like Logona, Lavera, Alverde or Alterra;, the available formats and flavours tend conform to the tried and tested formats and flavours: creamy paste and minty flavours.
However, the market is now being shaken up with the arrival of some seriously exciting flavours and unusual textures.
One of the most stylish-looking launches in this sector came from German baking soda deodorant brand Ben & Anna: the company has just launched three creamy toothpaste packaged in glass jars (the zero waste trend at work), two tooth cleaning powders (one charcoal, one cinnamon-flavoured) also packaged in glass) and a mouthwash which is based on moisturising aloe vera and sage extract.
Lithuanian brand You & Oil also introduced two toothpastes which are flavoured with tangeríne-mint and mint-cinnamon while German start-up brand Niyok presented a range of coconut-oil based toothpastes which come in flavours such as peppermint-lemon, blood orange-basil and ginger-lemongrass.
Like every year, Vivaness was accompanied by a congress programme of lectures and panel discussion on a wide range of topics, from the challenges of social media marketing over the latest updates in organic certifications and regulatory frameworks, to the organic beauty markets of Hong Kong and Taiwan.
Messe Nuremberg has also announced exciting news for next year's Vivaness. Because the beauty trade show has grown so much over the past few years, Vivaness 2020 will be moved from Hall 7A – the traditional Vivaness hall which has hosted the trade show since its first edition in 2007 - into a brand-new and much larger exhibition hall. The new Vivaness location, Hall 3C is situated right in the middle of the Biofach halls, reflecting the continuing growth and increasing prominence of the German and European organic beauty industry.
Vivaness 2020 will take place from 12th-15th February.